Home Featured Article Introducing: Highlights From Chopard’s L.U.C 25th Anniversary Collection

Introducing: Highlights From Chopard’s L.U.C 25th Anniversary Collection

by Laurie Kahle
introducing:-highlights-from-chopard’s-lu.c-25th-anniversary-collection

A little bit greater than 25 years in the past, Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele regarded out on the watch panorama and determined the model ought to now not be wholly depending on equipped actions.

In 1996, Chopard’s first in-house calibre 1.96 (named for the 12 months of its start) began ticking. The next 12 months, the 1.96 made its debut in a chic three-hand watch with a date perform named L.U.C 1860, a tribute to Louis-Ulysse Chopard, who based his personal watch manufactory within the Swiss village of Sonvillier. The signal on the constructing learn L.U.C (for L.U.Chopard), and the 12 months was, you guessed it, 1860.

This 12 months, Chopard is celebrating the silver jubilee of its L.U.C manufacture actions with 9 anniversary fashions in whole. Whereas a number of provide new takes on present L.U.Cs, a couple of standouts embody the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25, the model’s first in-house leaping hour; the L.U.C QF Jubilee, the primary L.U.C crafted in stainless-steel endowed with a Fleurier High quality Basis certification; a duo of edgy journey watches in high-tech ceramized titanium; and, for the Shanghai Watches & Wonders occasion, a duo of L.U.C Flying T Twin Women tourbillons.

Within the mid-1990s, as mechanical watches have been rebounding from the Quartz Disaster, it was significantly formidable for a small unbiased model like Chopard to set its sights on turning into a full-fledged manufacture.

On the time, the trade was closely reliant on sourcing actions from powerhouses like ETA and different specialists, so constructing your personal was a key method to differentiate your self in a aggressive market. However establishing a manufacture is not any small feat, particularly earlier than the golden age of CAD and CNC machines.

For Chopard, it began in 1994 in a leased room behind a blue door in an ETA manufacturing facility in Fleurier, Switzerland. There, a crew of eight started work on what would turn into the Caliber 1.96. From the beginning, Scheufele made it clear he was not all for producing simply a median computerized workhorse. He demanded one thing that will put his in-house watches on the map, even among the many most discriminating collectors, like him.

“For me, the very first L.U.C motion needed to carry some actual innovation, which we launched with the twin-stacked barrels and the standard of power they offered,” Scheufele mentioned in press supplies. “Additionally, whereas different micro-rotor actions have been unidirectional of their winding, we wished an ultra-efficient bi-directional winding system. Lastly, the Poinçon de Genève and the COSC chronometer certification was, to me, the last word assertion of the authenticity of our work.”

In 2000, Chopard bought the whole constructing, and as we speak, the Chopard Manufacture occupies 3,300 sq. meters (about 35,500 sq. toes) and employs 150 folks working in 21 conventional horological crafts. The unique workshop on the second ground nonetheless exists behind that blue door.

Over the previous two and half a long time, Chopard has launched 11 caliber households and over 100 variations, and it protects L.U.C’s exclusivity by limiting manufacturing to solely about 4,500 items per 12 months.

Here is a rundown of the brand new L.U.C 25th anniversary highlights for Watches & Wonders 2021:

All through its historical past, Chopard Manufacture has by no means produced a jumping-hour watch – till now. The elegant 40mm L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 within the model’s ethically sourced 18Ok rose-gold case remembers related items from a bygone period.

Leaping hours translate the time right into a digital show with a disc for the hour and both a hand or further disc displaying minutes. The idea originated in 19th-century pocket watches and was naturally fitted to the modern trendy wristwatches rising within the early 20th century.

Admittedly esoteric, leaping hours clearly aren’t for everybody – which is why I’ve a selected affinity for them, and why I am blissful to see them making one thing of a comeback this 12 months. Will retrogrades be subsequent? It is at all times a bit of further rush to see a dial come to life with the turning of every hour.

Primarily based on Chopard’s proprietary Quattro expertise, the L.U.C 98.06-L motion is provided with 4 barrels delivering as much as eight days of energy reserve, which is rather a lot for a jumper. Telltales of outstanding high quality are the balance-spring (geared up with a Phillips terminal curve that exactly controls the oscillations of the regulating organ) and the swan’s neck regulator (enabling exact adjustment).

And kudos on the selection of a creamy white Grand Feu enamel dial, underscoring the classic class and distinctive high quality of this 100-piece restricted version. The entire thing is so fantastically executed, it certified for the celebrated Poinçon de Genève.

Geared toward a youthful shopper with a penchant for retro design, the 25-piece stainless-steel L.U.C QF Jubilee took its cues from a 1950s-era L.U.Chopard mannequin.

The game-chic 39mm watch straddles from time to time with a sector dial reminiscent of these Deco days of the 1920s and ’30s, when the Bauhaus design motion outlined a brand new moderne aesthetic. And since type follows perform, the dial design with concentric circles is meant to intensify legibility by making it simpler to learn hours and minutes. Whether or not or not that is actually the case, it is nonetheless a terrific look.

L.U.C QF Jubilee faucets this retro development with a silvered sunburst middle dial, framed by a daring chapter ring in deep Chopard blue punctuated by chevron hour-markers. A railway-track minutes circle with black markings rings the periphery and a small seconds at six o’clock balances out all these circles.

Whereas its retro spirit is simple, after darkish, the piece lights up, 21st-century model, with Tremendous-LumiNova on the 4 fundamental hour-markers, the spherical base of the chevron-style hour-markers, in addition to the spear-shaped hour and minute palms.

Inside, the L.U.C 96.09-L motion leverages Chopard Twin expertise to generate a 65-hour energy reserve. Along with COSC chronometer certification, the QF Jubilee is the primary L.U.C stainless-steel mannequin with Fleurier High quality Basis certification, a regionally established badge of high quality.

All in all, it is a sharp vintage-y design on a contrasting brown calfskin leather-based strap backed by a stable motion.

L.U.C GMT One Black and L.U.C Time Traveler One Black

Relatively than look to the previous, the L.U.C GMT One Black and L.U.C Time Traveler One Black are completely au courant with a recent monochromatic black and gray shade scheme in a ceramized Grade 5 titanium case that’s exceptionally strong, but gentle on the wrist.

Chopard claims a world first in utilizing the fabric for a journey watch. With different functions in aerospace, automotive and medical part fields, ceramized titanium is produced by oxidizing floor layers of titanium at excessive temperatures utilizing electro-plasma expertise. This course of endows the biocompatible metallic with excessive hardness – 700 Vickers (Hv) – that is twice as laborious as Grade 5 titanium and greater than 4 occasions tougher than typical 316L stainless-steel. It additionally resists corrosion.

Whether or not you go for the easy GMT or the extra advanced world timer, this pair of intently associated sibs promise to be fashionable journey companions each time we are able to begin crisscrossing time-zones and not using a care once more.

First up, the GMT, restricted to 250 items, is designed for optimum readability and ease of perform. Native time reads conventionally through the central Dauphine hour and minute palms, whereas a GMT pointer hand tracks a second time-zone on a 24-hour observe across the periphery in black and light-weight gray, signifying day and evening. Separate crowns alter every time with the date and native time set at two o’clock, and the 24-disc set at 4 o’clock, due to the L.U.C 01.10-L motion with a 60-hour energy reserve.

Additionally restricted to 250 items, the L.U.C Time Traveler One Black world timer, a contemporary tackle 2016’s L.U.C Time Traveler One, provides a central date disc and the acquainted cities outer ring representing every of the world’s 24 fundamental time-zones, permitting you to concurrently learn the time in any locale.

Showcased via the exhibition case again, the Time Traveler’s finely-finished, self-winding L.U.C 01.05-L motion has a chic built-in development, an influence reserve of 60 hours, and frequency of 28,800 vph (Four Hz).

With its tonally shaded concentric discs, the dial manages to convey a variety of info clearly and concisely. The central date disc is paired with a pointer hand and framed by the hours and minutes chapter ring for native time with the palms managed by the crown at two o’clock. A second crown at 4 o’clock turns the town disc specifying 24 time zones synchronized to native time. Simply set the town the place you’re situated to the 12 o’clock place, and the opposite time zones will learn accurately.

Like all L.U.C timepieces with a seconds indication, each the GMT and world timer are COSC-certified chronometers. Every is fitted with an identical black strap in vegan rubber with a woven sample that resembles cloth. The Swiss-made strap is extraordinarily versatile and proof against water or sweat, in case it’s a must to launch right into a dash to make your connection. This sportif contact solely provides to the pair’s versatility, making them equally at residence negotiating in a boardroom or lounging by the lodge pool.

L.U.C Flying T Twin Women

Kicking off Watches & Wonders Shanghai, Chopard launched a ladies’s model of its L.U.C Flying T Twin in two variations that mix the most effective of each worlds for classy ladies who know their approach round a mechanical motion however nonetheless need to sparkle.

In 2019, Chopard Manufacture launched its first computerized motion with a flying tourbillon, the L.U.C 96.24-L that includes Chopard Twin expertise with two stacked barrels and a stop-seconds perform for making extremely exact changes.

The identical engine now powers two 35mm ladies’s fashions in moral 18Ok rose gold or platinum, every set to various levels with brilliant-cut diamonds. With an ultra-thin case measuring simply 7.47 millimeters thick, this enchanting duo are among the many smallest flying tourbillon watches available on the market.

The one-minute flying tourbillon, which is secured from the underside, is showcased floating in an aperture at six o’clock, whereas the cage is topped with a small seconds hand.

The gold model, with diamond-set bezel, flanks, lugs, and crown, is paired with a luminous textured mother-of-pearl dial with brilliant-cut diamonds serving as glittering hour markers – besides at 12 o’clock, which is marked with golden Arabic numerals. The platinum model would not maintain something again, embracing all-out extravagance with its dial, case, and lugs absolutely frosted with brilliant-cut diamonds – even the 22okay gold micro-rotor glitters with gems.

Endowed with each COSC Chronometer certification and the Poinçon de Genève, the ladies’s Flying T Twin as soon as once more proves that magnificence with brains simply cannot be beat.

Reference Quantity: Ref. 161977-5001

Diameter: 40mm

Thickness: 10.30mm

Case Materials: Moral 18Ok rose gold

Dial Coloration: Moral 18Ok rose gold with white Grand Feu enamel

Indexes: Black transferred Grand Feu enamel railway-track minutes scale and Arabic numerals

Water Resistance: 30 meters

Strap/Bracelet: Hand-sewn matte brown alligator leather-based strap with cognac-colored alligator leather-based lining. Polished and satin-brushed pin buckle in moral 18Ok rose gold

Caliber: L.U.C 98.06-L

Capabilities: Instantaneous hours show in six o’clock aperture; central minutes show; power-reserve indicator on the again; balance-stop perform enabling correct changes

Diameter: 31.80mm

Thickness: 4.85mm

Energy Reserve: 192 hours (eight days) with 4 barrels – unique Chopard Quattro expertise

Winding: Guide

Frequency: 28,800 vph (Four Hz)

Jewels: 42

Further Particulars: Poinçon de Genève

Value: $44,700

Availability: Now

Restricted Version: 100 items

Reference Quantity: Ref. 168613-3001

Diameter: 39mm

Thickness: 8.92mm

Case Materials: Chrome steel

Dial Coloration: Sectors in a silver-toned shade achieved by galvanic remedy with sunburst satin-brushed ending; chapter ring in blue achieved by galvanic remedy; black transferred railway-track minutes scale

Indexes: Chevron-type rhodium-plated hour-markers at 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10 and 11 o’clock; rhodium-plated hour-markers with Tremendous-LumiNova at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock

Water Resistance: 30 meters

Strap/Bracelet: Brown calfskin strap with blue lining, tone-on-tone stitching and blue bridle stitches; stainless-steel pin buckle

Caliber: L.U.C 96.09-L

Capabilities: Central show of hours and minutes; small seconds show at six o’clock

Diameter: 27.40mm

Thickness: 3.30mm

Energy Reserve: 65 hours with two stacked barrels – Chopard Twin expertise

Winding: Automated

Frequency: 28,800 vph (Four Hz)

Jewels: 29

Chronometer Licensed: Sure, by COSC

Further Particulars: Fleurier High quality Basis certification (QF)

Value: $14,500

Availability: Now

Restricted Version: 25 items

Reference Quantity: Ref. 168579-3004

Diameter: 42mm

Thickness: 11.71mm

Case Materials: Ceramized Grade 5 titanium

Dial Coloration: Darkish gray dial achieved by galvanic remedy; vertical satin-brushed ending on central half; snailed chapter ring; round satin-brushed GMT perform disc – gray between 6: 30 AM and 6: 30 PM with black transfers and black between 6: 30 PM and 6: 30 AM with white transfers; railway observe minute circle

Indexes: Hour-markers and Arabic numerals painted with Tremendous-LumiNova

Water Resistance: 50 meters

Strap/Bracelet: Cloth-patterned black rubber strap with gray stitching; ceramized Grade 5 titanium pin buckle

Caliber: L.U.C 01.10-L

Capabilities: Central show of hours, minutes and seconds; semi-instantaneous date show at six o’clock; GMT perform displayed on the outer dial disc; crown at two o’clock adjusts date and time; crown at 4 o’clock adjusts second time-zone – GMT; stop-seconds perform

Diameter: 31.90mm

Thickness: 5.95mm

Energy Reserve: 60 hours

Winding: Automated

Frequency: 28,800 vph (Four Hz)

Jewels: 31

Chronometer Licensed: Sure, by COSC

Value: $11,500

Availability: Now

Restricted Version: 250 items

L.U.C Time Traveler One Black

Reference Quantity: Ref. 168574-3008

Diameter: 42mm

Thickness: 12.09mm

Case Materials: Ceramized Grade 5 titanium

Dial Coloration: Darkish gray achieved by galvanic remedy; hand-applied vertical satin-brushed ending on central half; snailed chapter ring; round satin-brushed metropolis disc with white transfers; round satin-brushed GMT disc – gray between 6: 30 AM and 6: 30 PM with black transfers and black between 6: 30 PM and 6: 30 AM with white transfers; railway observe minute circle

Indexes: Hour-markers and Arabic numerals painted with Tremendous-LumiNova

Water Resistance: 50 meters

Strap/Bracelet: Vegan-certified fabric-patterned rubber strap with gray stitching; ceramized titanium pin buckle

Caliber: L.U.C 01.05-L

Capabilities: Central show of hours, minutes, seconds, date; cities show on the outer dial disc; disc-type GMT show; crown at two o’clock adjusts date and time of second time-zone; crown at 4 o’clock adjusts cities disc; stop-seconds

Diameter: 35.30mm

Thickness: 6.52mm

Energy Reserve: 60 hours

Winding: Automated

Frequency: 28,800 vph (Four Hz)

Jewels: 39

Chronometer Licensed: Sure, by COSC

Value: $15,500

Availability: Now

Restricted Version: 250 items

L.U.C Flying T Twin Women

Reference Quantity: Ref. 131981-5001 (rose gold); Ref. 131981-9001 (platinum)

Diameter: 35mm

Thickness: 7.47mm

Case Materials: Moral rose gold set with diamonds; platinum set with diamonds

Dial Coloration: Rose gold: Textured white mother-of-pearl dial with diamond-set hour-markers; Platinum: 18okay white gold dial solely set with diamonds

Water Resistance: 30 meters

Strap/Bracelet: Rose gold: Blue brushed cloth strap with diamond-set moral 18okay rose gold pin buckle; Platinum: Blue brushed cloth strap with diamond-set platinum pin buckle

Caliber: L.U.C 96.24-L

Capabilities: Central show of hours and minutes

Diameter: 27.40mm

Thickness: 3.30mm

Energy Reserve: 65 hours with two stacked barrels – Chopard Twin expertise

Winding: Automated

Frequency: 28,800 vph (Four Hz)

Jewels: 25

Chronometer Licensed: Sure, by COSC

Further Particulars: Poinçon de Genève

Value: Costs upon request

Availability: In Might

Restricted Version: 25 items

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