Chicago primarily based Astor+Banks brings their demure army aesthetic to a brand new assortment introduced in the present day dubbed the Fortitude. The brand new watch joins the Sea Ranger family, and provides a well-known look in a tidy new 38.5mm package deal. Provided in 5 colorways, the Fortitude provides a refreshing tackle the tried and true 3-hander. We spent a while with three of the accessible Fortitude variants, together with a MoP dial, and located quite a bit to love in regards to the new watches, even when they continue to be firmly within the model’s consolation zone. Listed here are our takeaways.
Introducing the Astor+Banks Fortitude
silver, mint inexperienced, navy, mom of pearl, gilt navy
C3 X1 Tremendous LumiNova
Flat sapphire crystal with AR coating on the underside
Stainless-steel bracelet, suede
The Fortitude is a continuation of the army themes at work inside the Astor+Banks design language and nomenclature, with this watch slotting into the ‘officer’ theme to the Sea Ranger’s ‘grunt’ theme. In hand and on the wrist, you’d be laborious pressed to tie this watch to such hardcore themes, because the watch provides a comparatively impartial and easy tone in its execution. The Fortitude is vivid and non-ambiguous with virtually designed options that may very well be referred to as minimal in fashion, however there’s sufficient boldness the place it counts. In that regard, there’s a sure army really feel when it comes to clear effectivity, with out wandering into tactical territory.
Astor+Banks are utilizing the identical basic case design as we noticed on the Sea Ranger, solely it’s been sized right down to a 38.5mm diameter with a 46mm lug to lug measurement. The lugs and case partitions are brushed with a refined chamfer operating the size of the case from lug tip to lug tip. Likewise, the bezel provides a vertical brush with a refined chamfer main right down to the case. The ensuing dome is mirrored on the underside of the case, which does issue into the wearability, extra on that later. The bracelet can be just like what was supplied on the Sea Ranger, with single interlocking hyperlinks that taper from 20mm on the lug to 16mm on the clasp. Match and end right here is satisfactory and positively nothing to scoff at on this worth vary. The lugs are drilled for straightforward entry to strap adjustments must you need, which ought to enchantment to homeowners an incredible deal as this one will look good throughout a variety of choices, from cloth to rubber, and even suede as is included with the watch.
The dial supplies simply sufficient depth the place it issues. The fingers and hour markers all have a way of function, and are clearly designed round legibility. Every is stuffed with C3 X1 grade Tremendous LumiNova however there are clear boundaries inside which the lume is utilized. The hour markers stand tall and obtain thick outlines for optimum distinction with the dial. The fingers additionally strike a pleasant steadiness between the lumed areas and the steel so that they bounce off the dial at a look for straightforward use even at a distance. There are hashes for the seconds hand and a date aperture at 6 o’clock, however there’s nothing that will get in the way in which of fresh legibility. Even the remnants of an hour baton beneath the date aperture obtain its personal lume and description.
The branding is minimal with light-weight typography used within the emblem in addition to the signage at 6 o’clock, clearly a secondary precedence to the fingers and hour markers. The identify of the watch is scripted in pink no matter dial alternative, with “20ATM // AUTOMATIC” showing beneath.
The Sea Ranger used a Selitta SW200 automated motion, and whereas the Fortitude does achieve a date complication, it opts as a substitute for a Miyota 9015 unit that’s adjusted in home previous to delivery. The Miyota supplies 42 hours of reserve and is granted a stage of anti-magnetism due to a pair of soppy iron plates that sit above and under it. The plates are rated to 20,000A/m, far outpacing the 4,800A/m required for ISO 764. The plates are the prime suspect in what’s the solely wearability problem with the Fortitude.
On the wrist, the Fortitude sits neatly and simply due to its candy spot dimensions, nevertheless there may be some added heft hiding beneath the case, that raises your entire watch up a mm or so north of the place you count on it to take a seat. The result’s a case that may seem like it’s floating on the wrist from sure angles, which isn’t so dangerous by itself, however the ensuing further work for the bracelet to make up the space from wrist to lugs imply the tip hyperlink is commonly positioned extra vertically than feels applicable. This creates a humpback look and I typically discovered myself pushing down on the top of the watch, considering it wanted re-adjusting. There’s nothing uncomfortable about this case, nevertheless it does alter the in any other case clear look on the wrist, and prohibits the watch from ‘sitting flat’.
General it is a very nice watch to put on all through the day. It’s simple to make use of and provides a number of practicality in a properly thought out, minimal design. The Fortitude isn’t a dramatic departure from the Sea Ranger, and that’s not a foul factor as we liked the aesthetic put forth by Astor+Banks. We’d like to see that aesthetic make its means into extra clearly differentiated fashions sooner or later, and the Fortitude is a small step in the best path.
Astor+Banks is providing the Fortitude with 5 totally different dial choices: silver; mint inexperienced; navy; mom of pearl; and Gilt Navy, which is an unique restricted (50computer) colorway to BLVDier, a customized clothier in Chicago. Pre-order pricing is ready at $525 and $550 for the MoP dial, with full MSRP being $650 and $695 respectively. You’ll be able to pre-order yours from Astor+Banks right here, with deliveries anticipated to start in December of this yr or January of subsequent. Extra from Astor+Banks.